Saturday, July 16

A Weekend in Brugge

Well its been awhile since I've written. On this rainy day I'm finally sitting myself down and shifting through some of what's happened to me these past two weeks.

Given a half-day of work and a connection through the French Heritage Society to stay at a chateau an hour away, Melissa and I decided to head to Brugge from July 1st to 3rd. You might be saying, 'Brugge... where the hell is that?'

Brugge is located Belgium. It is one of the most well preserved medieval towns in all of Europe. It became a city around 1100AD and still has much of the old infrastructure including part of the city wall. It's nickname is the 'Venice of the North,' due to its many canals. I guess a lot of painters came from there and there were many characteristic crafts, like lacework and brewing, that were still a prominent part of the cities economy. 

The other side of the Brugge experience has something to do with this quote from the movie 'In Brugge,' 'If you grew up on a farm, and were stupid, you would like Brugge.' The city is awash with waffle-eating, english-speaking, chocolate scrounging tourists. Brugge, in all its fairytale-land glory is a tourist sink.

The best way to avoid the crowds in this small city is to go out at night when the city has been evacuated. There are swans swimming in the light up canals and wandering the empty medieval streets transports you back in history. During the day, the fish market is really interesting. The vendors there produce some exceptional handicrafts and are open to talking about their work and what they think of the tourists in their city. We found some amazing pottery made by a man at the market who made his own glazes and offered us a spot in his studio. We sampled moules and frites, a Brugge specialty best had with amazingly good (and cheap) Belgium beer. Although I wouldn't want to eat this every day, it was a great meal. 











We spent much of Sunday in Brussels before catching our train back to Paris. Brussels holds the headquarters of the European Union and NATO. We didn't see too much of that, instead focusing our attention to, well, wandering. Here's what we found...








Thursday, June 30

Le Potager du Roi

Life thus far in France has been pretty remarkable. Based at the Potager du Roi in Versailles, I've had some time to recoup from day-to-day travel and settle into a semblance of a routine. Of course, the routine is defined by a job that has me working in the fields 8-hours a day, but they're old fields and the payoffs are damn good.

So here's the low-down. The Potager du Roi, or 'King's Kitchen Garden,' is just that, the vegetable and fruit garden for Louis XIV. The Potager is located next to the Versailles Palace to the East of the Pièce d'Eau des Suisses and covers 22 acres. It was built to, you guessed it, feed the king and other occupants of the Palace. The garden was designed by a lawyer by training and was finished in 1683. The garden is still remains relatively the same, using innovative practices to produce food.


From the people I've talked to, Versailles has the reputation for being a bougie kind of place. Many people are catholic and have lots of wealth by way of property. The month of June is the Mois de Molière and there's always music, a festival or parties going on. There are also, of course many tourists. Thankfully they tend to be in predictable places and it's easy to avoid the large groups.

The streets of Versailles
Versailles Palace and it's abstract frame
The Usual Before our Train to Paris
As part of our internship with the small organization, the French Heritage Society, Melissa and I share an apartment in the Potager. The apartment's lies up a windy staircase in the attic of the old garden barracks. The fact that we only have to walk downstairs makes our 8am work-day less intimidating. Our kitchens quaint but it's not the sort of place 'The Art of French Cooking' is not about to go down.

Our Front Yard - After Entering from the Road
Plus Petit
View from our kitchen (Credit to Mel P)


In our free time after work's done at 5pm, we've been keeping ourselves occupied with trips to Paris, shopping food markets and the amazing clothing 'soldes,' and get-togethers with new friends in the Ecole Nationale Supérieure du Paysage (ENSP). Yesterday for example, Melissa and I spent the day doing watercolors and picnicking in the Palace of Versailles gardens with a small group of Formation Continue folks and a teacher from the ENSP. The experience included a very talented teacher who's primary comment was 'plus de bleu,' informal wine and food (of course), and pissing in the palace gardens. When in France...
A Classy Picnic in the Paris Tuileries
(That is a Red Cross Blood Donor Card being used as a fork)

Performers at the 'Watering Can Party'/End of the year party for the ENSP