Normandy is for Lovers

Intuitive decisions are the best. In this case, a decision to explore Normandy solo made for one of the best weekends I've had this summer. Like all great lunatics the idea came to me in a dream. The dream was a foggy blur of white cliffs and was loosely based on imaginings of my grandfathers first experience in France at Omaha Beach on June 6th, 1944.
Mind you, I have never traveled alone. Maybe to college visits, for meetings around New York or between cities to meet others, but I have never stayed in a hotel by myself just because I felt like it. I realized this Thursday evening and quickly got to work making plans. By noon on Friday I had a map, a car waiting in Le Havre, a one-way train ticket and a hotel for that night.

Le Havre is a big industrial port for Northern France and it showed. I saw lots of what might have been guido's if they lived in New York and a lot of pavement and docks turned into shopping centers, clubs etc. I think this type of environment is a good place to start a trip.

Mon Voiture

Etretat

Driving along the coast of Normandy you can note a general pattern of cliff/ meadow, beaches/ valleys, and strips of deciduous forests. It's almost impossible not to stop at many of the small towns you come across on the windy road along the coast. Les Grande Dallas has a small beach that seems like a locals only spot and has a great impromptu moules stand. Sotteville has a great restaurant with an inn and old church right across the square. It's a great place to hunker down for the night. I was lucky enough to catch sunset at Phare d'Ailly, which has a great lookout where you can see a good distance along the white cliffs to either side. It reminded me of sunset on Mt. Huashan and why it's good to be alive. 

Due to the availability of water and wind, windmills and nuclear plants are common sites.

Normandy is famous for flower production.

The following day I got up early and made my way through Dieppe and Rouen. Dieppe had an interesting historical museum and lots of restaurants that looked good but being Sunday morning in France, nothing was open. Just south, the City of Rouen has a history that dates back at least 1,000 years. St. Joan of Arc was burned at the stake here. Many impressionists, such as Monet, Renoir and Sisley came here during the Beau Epoche era to work away from the noise of the city. It's easy to see how the landscape could inspire they're work. They were almost being literal. There were also a lot of old churches. Random fact of the moment: I was amazed to find out that 3/4 of the city died in the plague.

What not to do, Dieppe

Notre Dame, Rouen

A livelihood

Church where Joan of Arch was Burned at the Stake

On the drive back from Rouen, I realized that I had yet to jump in the ocean and decided, with the time I had, Etretat was a perfect place to do it. Bless you if you don't know what I'm talking about, but Ponyboy saying, 'Nothing gold can last,' was chiming through my head as I entered Etretat for the second time. Crazy busy. The once poetic path up the cliff to the church resembled an ant-hill. I went for a dip in what must have been 60°F water and got out of town. This is why when you know you have it good don't turn around.

After that it was just a drive back, walk around Le Havre, train to Paris, train to Versailles, walk home kind of evening. After several days, it became evident that Rent-a-Car did not notice there was a nick in one of the hubcaps on the car and I settled back into garden work smoothly.

All in all an amazing trip.

A Weekend in Brugge

Well its been awhile since I've written. On this rainy day I'm finally sitting myself down and shifting through some of what's happened to me these past two weeks.

Given a half-day of work and a connection through the French Heritage Society to stay at a chateau an hour away, Melissa and I decided to head to Brugge from July 1st to 3rd. You might be saying, 'Brugge... where the hell is that?'

Brugge is located Belgium. It is one of the most well preserved medieval towns in all of Europe. It became a city around 1100AD and still has much of the old infrastructure including part of the city wall. It's nickname is the 'Venice of the North,' due to its many canals. I guess a lot of painters came from there and there were many characteristic crafts, like lacework and brewing, that were still a prominent part of the cities economy. 

The other side of the Brugge experience has something to do with this quote from the movie 'In Brugge,' 'If you grew up on a farm, and were stupid, you would like Brugge.' The city is awash with waffle-eating, english-speaking, chocolate scrounging tourists. Brugge, in all its fairytale-land glory is a tourist sink.

The best way to avoid the crowds in this small city is to go out at night when the city has been evacuated. There are swans swimming in the light up canals and wandering the empty medieval streets transports you back in history. During the day, the fish market is really interesting. The vendors there produce some exceptional handicrafts and are open to talking about their work and what they think of the tourists in their city. We found some amazing pottery made by a man at the market who made his own glazes and offered us a spot in his studio. We sampled moules and frites, a Brugge specialty best had with amazingly good (and cheap) Belgium beer. Although I wouldn't want to eat this every day, it was a great meal. 

We spent much of Sunday in Brussels before catching our train back to Paris. Brussels holds the headquarters of the European Union and NATO. We didn't see too much of that, instead focusing our attention to, well, wandering. Here's what we found...

Notes from an interview with Martha Schwartz...

Travel. See. Feel. Record. Remember.